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Sugar Glider FAQ
This is the original 1995 Usenet sugar glider FAQ as written by Timothy Hussey and Ruth Grove. ***********************************************************************
Sugar Glider FAQ [1/4] - About this FAQ
Compiled & Maintained by Tim Hussey
This document is copyright 1995 by Tim Hussey and Ruth Grove.
***********************************************************************
Subject: TABLE OF CONTENTS
Part I: About this FAQ
0. **** About this FAQ ****
(0.1) Goal & Purpose of this FAQ
(0.2) Disclaimers
(0.3) How to get this FAQ
(0.4) The Format of this FAQ
(0.5) Copyright and Redistribution Information
(0.6) Credits and Acknowledgements
Part II: Introduction to Sugar Gliders
1. **** General Information ****
(1.1) What is a Sugar Glider, anyway?
(1.2) Do Sugar Gliders make good pets?
(1.3) What does a Sugar Glider look like?
(1.4) What noises do Sugar Gliders make?
(1.5) Do Sugar Gliders give off any scents?
2. **** Obtaining a Pet Sugar Glider ****
(2.1) Where can I find a Sugar Glider to purchase?
(2.2) What should I look for?
(2.3) Baby Sugar Gliders versus Adults
(2.4) Wild-caught versus Captive-Breed
(2.5) Should I keep more than one Sugar Glider?
(2.6) Will Sugar Gliders get along with other pets?
Part III: CARE AND MAINTENANCE
3. **** Housing Sugar Gliders ****
(3.1) What type of housing do Sugar Gliders require?
(3.2) What do Sugar Gliders need to climb/play on?
(3.3) What do Sugar Gliders need for sleeping/shelter?
(3.4) What type of bedding is best for Sugar Gliders?
(3.5) Can Sugar Gliders have free roam of your house?
4. **** Feeding Sugar Gliders ****
(4.1) Basic nutrional requirements of the Sugar Glider
(4.2) Why are fresh fruits and vegetable so important?
(4.3) Foods that Sugar Gliders will eat & are good for them
(4.4) What are good treats for Sugar Gliders?
(4.5) Keeping standards versus variety
5. **** Companionship and Exercise ****
(5.1) Do Sugar Gliders enjoy human companionship?
(5.2) How can I get my Sugar Glider to bond with me?
(5.3) When bonded, what can I expect?
Part IV: BREEDING, HEALTH CARE, & OTHER INFORMATION
6. **** Breeding Sugar Gliders ****
(6.1) Are Sugar Gliders difficult to breed?
(6.2) Overview of the birthing process
(6.3) How do I feed the newborns?
(6.4) When should they be removed from the parents?
(6.5) Do I need a license?
7. **** Health Concerns ****
(7.1) Watching fat & protein intake
(7.2) Vitamin deficiency
8. **** How to find other information ****
(8.1) Information sources near your home
(8.2) Information sources on-line
(8.3) Information in print
(8.4) Contacting me
Subject: (0.1) Goal & Purpose of this FAQ
The goal and purpose of this FAQ is to give the reader accurate and
relevant information on the keeping of Sugar Gliders as pets. My hope
is that this FAQ will become a written medium for group discussion
on the proper care and maitenance of these wonderful creatures. If
you have any comments, criticisms, or suggestions I greet them with
open arms at Timothy.L.Hussey.2@nd.edu.
Subject: (0.2) Disclaimers
I am in no way claiming to be an expert on sugar gliders -- I am
not a vet or do I have any formal training in this area. What is
contained in this FAQ is information I have compiled based on my
own experience and research, as well as the experiences and
research of others. The information here is true to my knowledge,
but I do not in any way guarantee itıs facticity. My hope is that
the reader will find this material helpful and useful.
Subject: (0.3) How to get this FAQ
This FAQ can be found and obtained in the following 3 ways:
-In the newsgroups rec.pets (posted monthly)
-At http://www.nd.edu/~thussey/pets/gliders/faq/
-Mailing me at Timothy.L.Hussey.2@nd.edu and asking.
The FAQ is in four parts, all of which should be available
wherever this part was located. Each part is important in it's
own way, and none should be completely overlooked.
Subject: (0.4) The Format of this FAQ
I have tried to adhere to digest format throughout this FAQ, in
order to make it as easy to read as possible. Each question begins
with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and the question
itself. In many unix newsreaders, such as rn, trn, and strn, CONTROL-G
can be used to jump to the next section. A particular section
can accessed immediately by searching for its number or for
words from the question. Also, cross-references to other questions
are denoted through the use of square brackets; for example, [2.3]
means that more information may be found on the noted topic in
section 2.3.
Subject: (0.5) Copyright and Redistribution Information
This compilation, which comprises four individual files as described
in the Table of Contents above, is copyright 1995 by Tim Hussey and
Ruth Grove. It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other
means, provided that it is distributed in its entirety (all 4 files),
including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart from the actual
costs of distribution. (For-profit service providers such as Compuserve
and America Online are granted permission to distribute the files
provided that no additional fee beyond standard connection-time
charges is levied.)
Subject: (0.6) Credits and Acknowledgements
I would like to thank both Emily Rocke (Guinea Pig FAQ) and
Brian MacNamara (Hedgehog FAQ) for all their help with my
learning the FAQ-writing process, as well as the digest format.
Without their help, you might not be reading this now.
I also want to give much thanks to Ruth Grove (regrove@bihs.net)
for her information and correspondance. Much of the information
here was given to me directly from her and this FAQ would not have
been nearly as complete today without her. Her Sugar Glider homepage
can be found at http://www.rtis.com/nat/user/regrove/, and I strongly
suggest that one goes there (mainly because her page is much better
than mine) (^:
Finally, I would like to thank the those writers who have written glider
articles for the Exotic Market Review (http://netmar.com:80/mall/shops/
atlantis/emr/) over the past year -- Linda Watkins, Dennis Quinter,
Kathy Keys, and Ann Dahl. Their information has been valuable beyond
words.
------------------------------
== End of Part I ==
--
***********************************************************************
Sugar Glider FAQ [2/4] - About this FAQ
Compiled & Maintained by Tim Hussey
This document is copyright 1995 by Tim Hussey and Ruth Grove.
***********************************************************************
Subject: TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. **** General Information ****
(1.1) What is a Sugar Glider, anyway?
(1.2) Do Sugar Gliders make good pets?
(1.3) What does a Sugar Glider look like?
(1.4) What noises do Sugar Gliders make?
(1.5) Do Sugar Gliders give off any scents?
2. **** Obtaining a Pet Sugar Glider ****
(2.1) Where can I find a Sugar Glider to purchase?
(2.2) What should I look for?
(2.3) Baby Sugar Gliders versus Adults
(2.4) Wild-caught versus Captive-Breed
(2.5) Should I keep more than one Sugar Glider?
(2.6) Will Sugar Gliders get along with other pets?
Subject: (1.1) What is a Sugar Glider, anyway?
Sugar Gliders (petarurus breviceps) are small, arboreal marsupials
which originate from New Guinea and Southern Australia. As their
common name entails, they possess a gliding membrane (similar to
that of the flying squirrelıs) that stretches from their wrists to their
ankles and allows them to Œglideı from tree to tree. As with all marsupials,
female sugar gliders also possess a pouch, in which they raise their young.
Sugar gliders are nocturnal animals which spend almost their entire live in
trees. In the wild, they live in colonies of between 6-10 gliders and spend
much of their time foraging for food.
Subject: (1.2) Do Sugar Gliders make good pets?
Sugar Gliders make excellent pets. They adapt very readily to captivity
and can develop very strong relationships with their human keepers. They
are small in size, are very intelligent and love to play. They are much
smarter than a hamster or rat and have a much longer life-span, most
living to be 10 or older if taken care of properly. Although nocturnal, I
found this to be a benefit, in that they want to play in the evening, which
is the only time I'm really home. Most gliders, if handled well and given
time, learn their owner(s) scent(s) and have absolutely no fear of them.
In fact, they love human attention. For me, the first attraction was that
they are just darn cute. The second was the strong bonds that they develop
with their owners.
Subject: (1.3) What does a Sugar Glider look like?
Sugar gliders grow to about 5-6 inches in length (excluding their long
tails) and have long, bushy tails which they use for balance and can
easily be the length of the body or longer. Their fur is usually grey/silver
with white bellies and a black stripe which extends from the tops of their
heads to the end of their tails. Males develop bald spots at the base of their
heads after reaching maturity [1.5]. They have fairly large, pointy ears and
large black eyes. Their face is similar to that of a possumıs or a bat's.
Presently, pictures can be seen at Ruth Grove's Sugar Glider page at
http://www.rtis.com/nat/user/regrove/ and hopefully soon at mine, also.
Subject: (1.4) What noises do Sugar Gliders make?
These cute marsupials, in so far as I can tell make 4 distinct
noises. The first is the 'get away from me or I'm gonna bite
you' noise. This has been described as sounding similar to a
miniature chainsaw or electric pencil sharpener. My friends and
I have taking to calling this 'crabbing'. You may hear this
noise a lot at first, but after a month you will learn what's they
like and they don't and you may never hear this again (hopefully).
The second is a happy chirp, which they make when excited or happy.
The third is a quieter chirp which I have yet to find a purpose
behind (other than simple communication).
The fourth noise is a loud sharp barking. I believe this is some
sort of call for other sugar gliders or just for attention from human
owners. Unfortunately, this can be very annoying, in that I've been
woken up more than my fair share by this barking. There is a .wav
file of this barking at my glider homepage. Oddly enough, my male glider
tends to do this more often during the period of a full moon.
Subject: (1.5) Do Sugar Gliders give off any scents?
The main odor given off by gliders is the usual waste smell,
but it's not strong at all and if their cage is kept clean, you will
never smell anything. I should mention here, however, that the
males do give off an odor before mating. While not really bad,
it is a distinct odor, and may take over a room for a week or two.
Gliders are very dependent upon their excellent senses of smell to
identify other gliders, as well as their owners.
Male gliders have two scent glands which they use for marking --
one is located on their belly and the other on the top of their head
(which accounts for the bald spot). When males grow accustomed to
their surroundings, they will mark objects by rubbing their bellies back
and forth upon the object. They will also mark any females in their
colony by rubbing the female's chin with their head.
Subject: (2.1) Where can I find a Sugar Glider to purchase?
Lately, Sugar Gliders are becoming easier to locate because of their
popularity. However, if you don't live near a big city, it may be difficult.
I would suggest obtaining a pet related magazine, such as the Exotic
Market Review, and finding a breeder as near as you as possible. The
standard going price for a sugar glider (in my experience is around
$200-300 for males and $250-$400 for females Mammals are also
relatively expensive to ship, so if you can find a breeder within driving
of your location distance, this is your best bet.
Also try newspapers -- this is how I located one of my gliders and
works much better than one might realize. I am currently trying to
a list of breeders, so if you have one you would like to be added, please
e-mail me and let me know. The breeder's info will only be given out
to individuals whom are sincerely interested and I will try to cut distances
as much as possible.
Subject: (2.2) What should I look for?
The best way to answer this is just to use common sense. You want an
animal that is active and will tolerate handling. Signs of good health can
be seen through bright, black eyes and a muscular build. If there is any
doubt about the quality or health of the animal, don't buy it. A federal
license is required in the US in order to sell baby gliders, so also make sure
your breeder is an exotic pet license with the US Dept. of Agriculture [6.8].
If the breeder is not licensed, don't waste your time.
Subject: (2.3) Baby Sugar Gliders versus Adults
Baby gliders are always preferable to adult, but sometimes availability
(and your wallet) can make them difficult to obtain. Babies are preferable
because they will be more willing to bond with you. Plus, the bond with
a baby glider you have raised will always be stronger than a bond developed
with an adult. Adults can come around, but if they haven't been handled
much, it can be an uphill battle.
Subject: (2.4) Wild-caught versus Captive-Breed
It is always preferable to have a captive-breed glider over one that was
wild-caught. If a glider has always had food come from a human hand, it
will consequently be much tamer. Most wild-caught gliders will not
tolerate handling and have brownish fur, as a result of staining. Also,
wild-caught gliders are much more subseptible to vitamin defeciencies
while in captivity [7.2].
Subject: (2.5) Should I keep more than one Sugar Glider?
It is also preferable to keep more than one glider together. In the wild,
they are community animals and they seem to be much healthier and
happier while in groups in captivity. For breeding purposes, it is best to
keep one male with two females. Gliders readily adapt to one another's
presence and will easily become best of friends.
Subject: (2.6) Will Sugar Gliders get along with other pets?
As a result of being aboreal, gliders have practically no fear of any
land-dwelling creature. You will have more trouble with your other
pets not liking your glider than vice-versa. Basically, it all depends
on your other pet's disposition(s).
------------------------------
== End of Part 2 ==
--
***********************************************************************
Sugar Glider FAQ [3/4] - Care & Maintenance
Compiled & Maintained by Tim Hussey
This document is copyright 1995 by Tim Hussey and Ruth Grove.
***********************************************************************
Subject: TABLE OF CONTENTS
3. **** Housing Sugar Gliders ****
(3.1) What type of housing do Sugar Gliders require?
(3.2) What do Sugar Gliders need to climb/play on?
(3.3) What do Sugar Gliders need for sleeping/shelter?
(3.4) What type of bedding is best for Sugar Gliders?
(3.5) Can Sugar Gliders have free roam of your house?
4. **** Feeding Sugar Gliders ****
(4.1) Basic nutrional requirements of the Sugar Glider
(4.2) Why are fresh fruits and vegetable so important?
(4.3) Foods that Sugar Gliders will eat & are good for them
(4.4) What are good treats for Sugar Gliders?
(4.5) Keeping standards versus variety
5. **** Companionship and Exercise ****
(5.1) Do Sugar Gliders enjoy human companionship?
(5.2) How can I get my Sugar Glider to bond with me?
(5.3) When bonded, what can I expect?
Subject: (3.1) What type of housing do Sugar Gliders require?
Housing sugar gliders is relatively easy and, being clean
animals, require relatively low maintenance. The cage,
preferably, should be made of nothing smaller than 1" X .5"
welded wire (so babies can't escape). A wire cage is practically
a necessity, in order to give them plenty to climb around on.
Many bird cages on the market today work great, but making your
own may give you more space and be cheaper. The cage should be
no smaller than 20" X 20" X 20". My cage is round -- 24" in
diameter and 38" tall -- and easily accommodates my two gliders.
Subject: (3.2) What do Sugar Gliders need to climb/play on?
One requirement is the presence of live fruit tree branches.
These serve two purposes -- first, they provide a natural environment
for gliders to climb and keep their teeth healthy. Being
arboreal, sugar gliders absolutely need branches to climb around
on to be physical fit. Plus, it fun to watch them run around --
they are extremely coordinated and excellent climbers. Secondly,
like other small animals, glider teeth never stop growing and they
need something to gnaw on. However, unlike hamsters and bunnies,
gliders won't touch anything artificial -- they want the real thing.
The best thing to use are wild apple and sassafras branches. I have
also been told that oak tree branches will also work. However,
whatever you use DO NOT USE ANY BRANCH THAT HAS BEEN SPRAYED WITH
PESTICIDES. In the wild, gliders chew the bark off trees looking
for insects and sap, so the branches will keep them occupied while
your not around.
Subject: (3.3) What do Sugar Gliders need for sleeping/shelter?
Another requirement is a nest box to sleep in during the day.
They will all sleep together in one box, so only one is needed.
The main thing is to make sure they can get away from the light
during the day. You should NEVER have your gliders out in direct
sun, in that it is very harmful to their eyes (not to mention
interrupting their sleep schedule). In the wild, they sleep in
tree hollows in groups during the day. The best thing to fit
this need is a bird nesting box. My gliders are very comfortable
in a common finch nesting box found in any pet store, where I
have placed 2-3 unscented tissues for pillows/blankets.
Subject: (3.4) What type of bedding is best for Sugar Gliders?
As far as bedding goes, I have found corn cob bedding to work
best. Cedar has it's obvious draw-backs (see the bedding FAQ
regularly posted on rec.pets) and pine bedding gets to be really
messy because of sticky paws from fruit juices. Newspaper can
also be used, put has the same drawback as pine. Also, if you
do use newspaper, you should be aware that colored ink is deadly
to many species of gliders. The bedding should be changed as
needed, which is usually every 1.5-2 weeks for mine.
Subject: (3.5) Can Sugar Gliders have free roam of your house?
Gliders should never be left alone with free roam of your house.
They can and will chew on some furniture and love to tear up drapes.
They can be definitely be left out of their cage -- they just need to
be watched. So, be sure to leave them in their cages, unless supervised.
Subject: (4.1) Basic nutrional requirements of the Sugar Glider
Gliders need a solid 75 percent fruit and 25 percent protein diet.
Anything more or less in can be very harmful, and even fatal. Low
fat is also a definite need for these guys -- they don't handle fat
very well and too much can be very harmful.
Subject: (4.2) Why are fresh fruits and vegetable so important?
The presence of fruit in their diets cannot be ignored,
however. I give my gliders a piece of fresh fruit about every
three days. They are fond of anything tropical, and are seem
not to like apples or bananas very much. They love grapes, raisins,
melons, and oranges. They also love yogurt (low-fat!) with
fruit and any fruit juices. Fresh fruits and vegetables are very
important because they should be a staple diet.
Subject: (4.3) Foods that Sugar Gliders will eat & are good for them
Here is a list of foods I have found to be popular with gliders and
good for them, too:
pineapple, peaches, apples, pears, strawberries, cantaloupe,
honeydew, melons, grapes, papaya, apricots, oranges, corn,
sweet potatoes, squash, fruit juices, blueberries, dried fruit,
fruit jams, assorted baby foods, low-fat deli turkey and ham,
peanuts, raisins, carrots, mealworms, pumpkin seeds, sunflower
seeds, dried peas, almonds.
Here is a diet of the Squirrel glider used by Taronga Zoo in Sydney,
Australia. Thanks goes out here to Ruth Grove. The diet for the Sugar
glider is the same except having smaller quantities. Half of each
will probably do Ok. check and see.
Apple 3g
Banana/Corn 3g
Dog Kibble 1.5g
Fly pupae 1 teaspoon
Grapes/Kiwi fruit 3g
Hard Boiled Egg 10g
Leadbeaters Mix 2 teaspoons (details of mix below)
Orange (incl. skin) 4g
Pear 2g
Rockmelon/Paw Paw 2g
Sweet potato 3g
Day Old chick Wednesdays.
Larger insects when available eg. mealworms.
Leadbeaters Mix
Warm Water 450ml
Honey 450ml
Shelled boiled eggs 3
High-Protein baby cerial 75g
Sustage (Voitamin supplement) 3 teaspoons
Method
Add warm water to container, slowly add the honey and mix in.
Blend eggs (no shells) until mushy.
Add 1/2 honey/water mix to the blended eggs, blend.
Add the remainder of honey/water mix, blend.
Add sustagen and half the baby cerial, blend
Add the remaining baby cereal
Blend for 1.5 minutes to make mixture lump free.
This zoo diet is perfect, and should be followed as closely
as possible.
Subject: (4.4) What are good treats for Sugar Gliders?
Good treats for gliders are anything sweets -- favorites are
honey, and sugar cane sticks. These should obviously be given
in moderation. They also love sweet potatoes and mealworms,
which can be given often. Use your imagination here -- they
are good eaters and love just about anything sweet. Just use
common sense (for example, taffy would be a bad idea).
Subject: (4.5) Keeping standards versus variety
Something can be said for both methods. Personally, I use two food
bowls -- one remains the same and one rotates. My standard is
Sun Seed's Fabulous Fruit parrot food. The ingredients are:
Dehydrated banana, dehydrated pineapple, dehydrated papaya,
raisins, dehydrated coconut, peanuts, dehydrated peas, dehydrated
carrots, red pepper, orange extract, sugar.
This is a very good diet because their are no artificial flavors,
colors, or preservatives, all of which are not good for a glider's
constitution. Although they won't eat the banannas, they love
everything else in the mix. I also add IAMs cat food to this mix
(they love the lamb & rice flavor).
Subject: (5.1) Do Sugar Gliders enjoy human companionship?
Gliders *love* to be with people once they have been tamed and
bonded. They prefer their actually owners, but they do love to run
around the house with you, playing hide and seek games.
Subject: (5.2) How can I get my Sugar Glider to bond with me?
Just spend lots and lots of time with it. Some gliders tame much
better than others, depending on whether they had tame parents
and their age, but most will eventually come around. Just be patient
and do not force anything. Also, wearing gloves will mask your scent,
which defeats the whole purpose of handling.
Subject: (5.3) When bonded, what can I expect?
You can expect a glider that loves to be around you and craves your
attention. They love hide-and-seek games and to finger wrestle.
My gliders jump out to see me each evening and jump right out on me
to play.
------------------------------
== End of Part 3 ==
--
***********************************************************************
Sugar Glider FAQ [4/4] - Breeding, Health Care, and Other Information
Compiled & Maintained by Tim Hussey
This document is copyright 1995 by Tim Hussey and Ruth Grove.
***********************************************************************
Subject: TABLE OF CONTENTS
6. **** Breeding Sugar Gliders ****
(6.1) Are Sugar Gliders difficult to breed?
(6.2) Overview of the birthing process
(6.3) How do I feed the newborns?
(6.4) When should they be removed from the parents?
(6.5) Do I need a license to breed Sugar Gliders?
7. **** Health Concerns ****
(7.1) Watching fat & protein intake
(7.2) Vitamin deficiency
8. **** How to find other information ****
(8.1) Information sources near your home
(8.2) Information sources on-line
(8.3) Information in print
(8.4) Contacting me
Subject: (6.1) Are Sugar Gliders difficult to breed?
Not at all, mainly because they spend most of their infancy
in their mother's pouch. The whole group can be left together
during the pregnancy and birthing. The mother seems to lose
interest after giving birth, but the male kicks right in and
does most of the feeding from then on.
Subject: (6.2) Overview of the birthing process
Most Sugar Gliders will begin breeding somewhere between
7 months to a year, with some waiting until they are 13 to 14
months old. They will mate year round, provided they have enough
protein. They usually have 2 babies at a time, 4 to 6 babies
a year, if weanlings are removed after independent. The gestation
period is short -- about 16 days. Once birthed they are carried
in the maternal pouch for 2.5 to 3 months. The male may remain
with the female throughout the entire birthing process, but it
is best to simply leave the mother alone during this period.
When they are out of the pouch, covered with fur, have their eyes
open and have been eating solid food for 3-4 weeks they are 3/4
grown, independent and ready to ween. At this time, they can be
gently handled for short periods of time. Just be sure that they
are getting plenty of fruit & protein and are handled gently. Be
sure not to remove them from the pouch before this time because
once they are removed from the nipple, they cannot reattach
themselves. When they are weaned, they should be gently handled
frequently and gently, if they are to be pets.
Subject: (6.3) How do I feed the newborns?
The newborns should be eating semi-solid foods such as low-
fat fruit yogurts and baby foods until they are around 3 months
old, when they can start gradually recieving solid foods.
Subject: (6.4) When should they be removed from the parents?
Usually between 2.5 to 3 months of age is the best time. The change
in the colony size affects the babies and the parents, so they may
be stressed for a few days after the break-up. Females usually
are aggressive toward female babies after they are older than 3 months,
but males are usually ignored.
Subject: (6.5) Do I need a license to breed Sugar Gliders?
If you live in the United States, yes you do (I have no information
regarding this in other countries, so if you do, let me know). Write
to either:
US Dept. of Agriculture
Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service
Regulatory Enforcement and Animal Care
Central Sector
P.O. Box 6258
Ft. Worth, TX 76115-6258
OR
US Dept. of Agriculture
Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service
Regulatory Enforcement and Animal Care
Sector Supervisor
2568-A Riva Road, Suite 302
Annapolis, MD 21401-7400
and ask for information on how to get licensed to raise and
sell exotics.
Subject: (7.1) Watching fat & protein intake
Too much fat or protein is a very bad thing for these little
animals. Too much protein can lead to obesity and reduced
activity in your animals. You can remedy this with more --
you got it -- fresh fruit and vegetables.
Too much fat can lead to serious problems regarding breeding.
It seems if the mother has too high a fat content, the babies
will be born with fat rolling in their eyeballs. This can be seen
as small white spots in the babies' eyes. This can be remedied
with an ultra low-fat diet (which you should be feeding them
anyway).
Subject: (7.2) Vitamin deficiency
Vitamin deficiency is a serious problem that can lead to death.
The first signs are a glider that is dragging their hind legs.
Eventually, the glider can lose the use of its hind legs and die. This
can be remedied by putting a liquid vitamin supplement in the gliders
water bottle or sprinkling vitmain supplement on moistened food.
Subject: (8.1) Information sources near your home
The best near your home is your local newspaper or breeder.
Try to find other glider owners and pool information. Once again,
just try and you might be suprised at what you find.
Subject: (8.2) Information sources on-line
There are currently two sources of information about gliders on-line
(to my knowledge) -- myself and Ruth Grove (regrove@bihs.net ).
You can e-mail her or me with your questions or visit our www pages.
Her page (which is presently much better than mine) can be found at
http://www.rtis.com/nat/user/regrove/.
Subject: (8.3) Information in print
I have only found one book that has information on gliders as pets:
Small Exotic Mammals (Aardvark to Zebra Mice) by Pat Storer
(privately published, thus no ISBN #, but good anyway)
Its available from
R-Zu-2-U
Country Storer Enterprises
P.O.Box 160
Columbus, TX 78934
Send them a SASE for prices or info.
However, I have found various biological studies done on them in
zoological journals. Try a college library.
Subject: (8.4) Contacting me
Please feel free to contact me at Timothy.L.Hussey.2@nd.edu at any time
with your comments, criticisms, and suggestions....
------------------------------
== End of Part 4 ==
--
- Tim Hussey e-mail: Timothy.L.Hussey.2@nd.edu
Gliding the Web Homepage URL: http://www.nd.edu/~thussey/pets/gliders/
--
Timothy.L.Hussey.2@nd.edu
http://www.nd.edu/~thussey/
See my Sugar Glider & Gecko Homepages:
http://www.nd.edu/~thussey/pets/
Got gliders? email me...
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